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DRAGRCR RED EYES

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Speedy!

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In my experience when it's ESP kicking in the exhaust note will also change. I've been playing around a bit lately since my Nitto 555Rs are bald and when I get the tires spinning in like 2nd leaving a stop light the exhaust will go from a bark to a burble as ESP kicks on.
 


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In my experience when it's ESP kicking in the exhaust note will also change. I've been playing around a bit lately since my Nitto 555Rs are bald and when I get the tires spinning in like 2nd leaving a stop light the exhaust will go from a bark to a burble as ESP kicks on.
I can't hear what a 'burble' sounds like in my head. lol
 


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In my experience when it's ESP kicking in the exhaust note will also change. I've been playing around a bit lately since my Nitto 555Rs are bald and when I get the tires spinning in like 2nd leaving a stop light the exhaust will go from a bark to a burble as ESP kicks on.
I can't hear what a 'burble' sounds like in my head. lol
Yep, he is an encyclopedia! I remember where I have a great example of that nasty exhaust note between shifts, reading the past couple posts, you guys reminded me. I tried the RE a time or two this weekend, and IT IS that worthless wicked noise between gears that it does and nearly lays down. Leave it to you guys looking for every tenth of a second to examine the hell out of these things. Thanks!

Listen to the shift 1-2 and 2-3 of my old Hellcat during this burnout to finish off some tires. It was big 1-2, less 2-3 and almost not there 3-4. But it was exactly doing the pulling @Speedy! is describing, because it was sensing the big burnout. The RE has it worse. Now none of you need to go burn more rubber to hear it.

 


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Some have dubbed that the hemi fart.
 


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@AMRCN HP got your logs. There weren't any torque mgmt or transmission PIDs captured in the logs, but what I do see is the car shifted from 1-2 around 6100RPM on the first two runs and shifted early at 5400 on the last.
Yeah, that’s what I saw, too. It felt like I was hitting a wall on the 1-2 shift and that last pass was definitely the most pronounced.

I think I screwed up loading Curt’s channel config. Going to hit the track again Saturday for some more stock data before making changes - I’ll follow back up to see if I can get both the channel and layout files. I think I might still have Mike @OST’s channel/layout files, too. Worst case I’ll use those and report back.

Paul...
 


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I will try to add another data point in to help, my hearing is terrible, but I do notice the same slight hesitation, but here is the video, and the time slip from a run late last year, and a follow up run. The car is stock, with MT 305/45-17 and skinnies on the BS wheels
IMG_1102.jpeg
 


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I will try to add another data point in to help, my hearing is terrible, but I do notice the same slight hesitation, but here is the video, and the time slip from a run late last year, and a follow up run. The car is stock, with MT 305/45-17 and skinnies on the BS wheels
View attachment 17991
What kind of filter you running or no filter maybe. Sounds louder then stock.
 


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That was stock filter. I didn’t pick the demon crate one up until February of this year. Oh also always 93 octane, bp or shell. Forgot to mention that but we are fortunate that 93 is plentiful
 


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EricG

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I will try to add another data point in to help, my hearing is terrible, but I do notice the same slight hesitation, but here is the video, and the time slip from a run late last year, and a follow up run. The car is stock, with MT 305/45-17 and skinnies on the BS wheels
View attachment 17991
Damn that was a sweet run! She hooks and books...GONE!
 


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I have been working on this for the last couple days. A lot of Hellcats are going to be happy about this if I can make it work........

View attachment 17997
I have to admit I've been wondering what you've been up to Ron :)

Have you had any conversations with your dealer, about sending your car back, or trying to pursue a flash for the transmission programming?

Like you I'm just fine leaving this car stock, I even purchased extra warranty and have a good dealer for service.

Have you ever considered the Demon HO programming from AJ/Hemituner I think??? Gives you the 840hp tune for race gas and Demon drag mode for the tranny and suspension - however I don't know what it exactly does with the suspension because I think the RE has different dampers? I realize that may be a warranty no no but it's really just the factory Demon modes from Dodge I believe.
 


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DRAGRCR

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Marc W

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[QUOTE="DRAGRCR, post: 86287
I am also working on how to adjust the Power Steering Column when the Driver’s Seat is removed.

@DodgeCares[/QUOTE]
Too late. I’ll just remove my steering wheel instead. 😝 362FD8EF-3B1C-42A7-A6DE-3120728B0FE1.jpeg 8E1E5150-EF58-47FD-8E4F-F6EE677B4037.jpeg
 


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DRAGRCR

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MaxCarnage

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I am going to be using HP Tuners to Datalog and possible future tuning calibrations. So that leaves out Barth, I think. Since the Power Chiller is now divorced from the Track Mode I think I will hook good enough to not need the drag mode. I think the Dampers are the same. It's just software. I could be wrong. I like the idea of just flashing the Demon TCM program in the car, but my Demon did start Hiccuping in Houston and that slowed me way down. I think the adaptives were counterproductive and needed to be reset and that did seem to fix it. But I do not want to be having to disconnect my battery constantly so I think scratch tuning the Trans might be better.
HP Tuners is the direction I am headed too. Just purchased a MPVI2 w/smart cable from Curt, who will likely be my tuner when I get to that point. For now I'm just going to use it for datalogging. I don't want to switch from stock quite yet. Especially since I've just recently gotten a CEL 0420/0430 (Low Cat efficiency bank 1/ bank 2). I reset it, then 200 miles later 0420 came back but not 0430. My dealer ordered the driver side cat (wish they ordered both sides!). I'm not going to be tuning my car until that is fixed and have a few more thousand miles on the car (make sure all the bugs are worked out and car is good).

I'd be happy to share what data I get with everyone, when I start logging. Although until the Cat efficiency BS is taken care of, I'm guessing my car might run richer than normal.
 


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@MaxCarnage my same thoughts, purchase the the unit for data logging, become familiarized with it and then possible tune down the road. For now keep stock. By the way how many miles are you at with 0420 0430 code
popping?
 


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@MaxCarnage my same thoughts, purchase the the unit for data logging, become familiarized with it and then possible tune down the road. For now keep stock. By the way how many miles are you at with 0420 0430 code
popping?
1600 miles (bought the car in January 2019). No problems until this 0420/0430 code. Thought maybe I got some bad gas, wasn't sure. After a couple partial fill ups thought maybe the problem was gone, but it came back. It's only a weekend car for me, so sometimes it sits for a week or so. It just sits for 4 months of winter storage where I put it on a battery tender. Dealer checked for exhaust leaks, found none, then decided to order the driver side cat. Won't get the part in until June 15th.

I've had quite a few weekend cars like this one before that I've stored over the winter and drove on weekends. Never have I had an issue with cats before. I'm leaning towards deleting them when I mod though. One less issue to worry about and the smell of unleaded fuel never bothered me much.
 


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Hope your fix goes well and resolves it without further issues. I am at about 7200 miles. No codes yet. Just the 1-2 shift hiccup and sometimes 2-3. Also first time T-stat opens on warm up it goes a little high then wont again till next cold start up. I suppose over all nothing major.
 


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Too late. I’ll just remove my steering wheel instead. 😝 View attachment 18007 View attachment 18008
Nice! So you did end up finding a NRG quick release that worked(y)[/QUOTE]. Sorta. I took a chance on what they had listed for the 2010 thinking the spline/shaft configuration might work. It did. It’s unchanged. The hub itself though won’t fit over the new clock spring housing so I had to remove that. That means for the time being I won’t have the turn signals. They said that they will have the new one in the future. When they do, I’ll Spend the $100 for one of those and put the clock back. While all this seems extreme, in reality, I can put the whole thing back to stock for street driving inside of 5 minutes.
 


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