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Headers.....

white1

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#1
More specifically TSP headers.
has anyone installed them in car?
I’m planning to attempt this tomorrow. I’m pretty nervous about the upper bolts on the passenger side.
I didn’t plan this out and I have ARP 12pt bolts and a stud kit but I don’t think there is room for a ratcheting wrench, and I’m not sure there’s room for a box end wrench.
the nuts on my studs are locking nuts so it will be a long day one flat at a time with an open end wrench.
Never tried to remove the valve covers but that might be an option depending.....

wish me luck
 


Hpindy

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#2
Yes it is a time consuming ordeal .
Good luck

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
 


JRabq

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#3
More specifically TSP headers.
has anyone installed them in car?
I’m planning to attempt this tomorrow. I’m pretty nervous about the upper bolts on the passenger side.
I didn’t plan this out and I have ARP 12pt bolts and a stud kit but I don’t think there is room for a ratcheting wrench, and I’m not sure there’s room for a box end wrench.
the nuts on my studs are locking nuts so it will be a long day one flat at a time with an open end wrench.
Never tried to remove the valve covers but that might be an option depending.....

wish me luck
Good luck! Knuckle pics when ur done!
 


vortecd

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#4
You should post pics of the headers. The pic I found shows lots of room. Only bolts on a 392 I did from the top were the front 2, all the rest were done from the bottom
I will be interested to see the difference at the track.
Simon proved you could get into the 8's with stock exhaust so I keep that in the back of my head

1640777301906.png
 


vortecd

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#5
If you were close I would come over and help so I could see if there is much difference from a 392 to a Hellcat. Looking at it not much. The cooling lines on the passenger side are there but going from the bottom not sure they would be in the way.

The coyote mustangs use studs from the factory. There were one or 2 we had to switch out to a bolt but I like the studs.
 


OP
white1

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Thread Starter #6
You should post pics of the headers. The pic I found shows lots of room. Only bolts on a 392 I did from the top were the front 2, all the rest were done from the bottom
I will be interested to see the difference at the track.
Simon proved you could get into the 8's with stock exhaust so I keep that in the back of my head

View attachment 60379
That pic is the drivers side header. I’m not worried about that one. It’s the other one haha.
I’ll get some pics when I get to the shop
 


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If it is any louder than the stock ones I have now,,, my neighbors will have me thrown under Sing Sang prison. Weather permitting, cool enough, wear I can run the car with the winders down and have a nice cool engine. Lord fer bid, rather crap in my grand ma's grits. As to start this car upster. You'dthink I shot Snooty the manatee. My god, bring the world to an end. This piss ant idiot whom owns a Jap bee hive mud flaps on a golpher's ass car,,, can start this zip lock killer beez car up at 5 am and let it run for an hour for whatever reason. Neighbors don't care. Blind, deaf, and dumpster, and or all 3. Don't seem to care but me to start my car H/C up at or before 7 am I may as well turned the water off. Damnest thing I have exsperienced. They even call my last fiancee to bitch at her cause I want answer my phone cause I knoe it's them. To advance the timing exhaust, ect wood send them over the sand trap on 69th hole. There's anus to their proc toll gist.
 


OP
white1

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Thread Starter #8
You should post pics of the headers. The pic I found shows lots of room. Only bolts on a 392 I did from the top were the front 2, all the rest were done from the bottom
I will be interested to see the difference at the track.
Simon proved you could get into the 8's with stock exhaust so I keep that in the back of my head

View attachment 60379

D2326708-A4A0-4C1E-A6CF-6BE1C8C8E574.jpeg 47125030-177A-44F8-B2C2-6952412FB98A.jpeg
 


Mean Cat

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#9
Headers may help a little but I don't think the cost & PITA is worth it.

.02
 


vortecd

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#11
Take lots of pics
 


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#12
Noone is seeing any great improvement with headers. Just as w the intake, dodge dod its ho.e work. Why leave money the customer will spend for additional HP on the table to be snatched by aftermarket and shops. Do it right and increase oem margin.

Still, cant wait to read the experience! Thanks for posting up.
 


OP
white1

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Thread Starter #13
Noone is seeing any great improvement with headers. Just as w the intake, dodge dod its ho.e work. Why leave money the customer will spend for additional HP on the table to be snatched by aftermarket and shops. Do it right and increase oem margin.

Still, cant wait to read the experience! Thanks for posting up.
I try to consult with all my customers. In the end they get what they want.
I argued against e85 on NA vehicles for long time. A persistent customer got e85 on his car.
Now I recommend it lol

I’ve had these headers on the shelf for over a year. Since before I had the car even. Had some time and a helping hand so.......
 


OP
white1

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Thread Starter #14

16GoManGoHC2

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#15
Get a flex head gear wrench, 10 mm is the ARP bolt size, I think stock is same size as well
image.jpg
 


OP
white1

white1

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Thread Starter #16
Went much smoother than expected.
dropped K member to the last few threads on the bolts.
got all manifold and header bolts from the bottom.
I’m used to stock bolts being too long and the TSP kit did not come with bolts.
I had a set of 12pt ARH bolts I found in the tool box.
the worst part was I apparently only have 1 12pt 10mm socket

I really was surprised to not only finish today, but I didn’t even stay late!
 


OP
white1

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Thread Starter #17

vortecd

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#18
Went much smoother than expected.
dropped K member to the last few threads on the bolts.
got all manifold and header bolts from the bottom.
I’m used to stock bolts being too long and the TSP kit did not come with bolts.
I had a set of 12pt ARH bolts I found in the tool box.
the worst part was I apparently only have 1 12pt 10mm socket

I really was surprised to not only finish today, but I didn’t even stay late!
On my old '13 mustang I found dropping the k frame made the job much easier. I would unbolt it and let it swing down leaving the steering and such attached. I didn't look much at doing that to the Charger but sounds like it helped you.
 


vortecd

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#19
Not a big fan of the motor mounts. We spent a lot of time getting them back on when we installed the headers. When I took the headers back off I left the mounts on. Had to remove the knock sensors but had the headers off in a 3rd of the time it took 2 of us to but the headers on

Like everything once you do it a few times you figure out what works best
 


vortecd

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#20
Did you have to pull the starter?
 




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