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P4D Race Brace

Rcasa20

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BULL

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Interesting, has anyone actually done testing on our cars? Would like to know the real benefit if combined with the DIRS setup, since that system came out I haven't heard of diff case issues that were prevalent before it.
 


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I cant part with another 200.
 


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Rcasa20

Rcasa20

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Thread Starter #5
@Speedy! Maybe this will fix your 60’!! :)
 


vortecd

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I may have to get one, it is shiny and new, gotta have it!
 


vortecd

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I have seen the rear brace knocked of a few hundreds from my 60 ft. The rear one added another connection point where as this one doesn't so I'm trying to wrap my head around how it will actually help
 


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I have seen the rear brace knocked of a few hundreds from my 60 ft. The rear one added another connection point where as this one doesn't so I'm trying to wrap my head around how it will actually help
I don't have the DIRS one, I have the 2nd one that came out with the clearance & oil fill & drain still accessible, which I like. So I'm thinking that the back of the diff is anchored down it prob. won't hurt to anchor down the front of the diff.
 


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I don't have the DIRS one, I have the 2nd one that came out with the clearance & oil fill & drain still accessible, which I like. So I'm thinking that the back of the diff is anchored down it prob. won't hurt to anchor down the front of the diff.
It’s funny reading all the comments on FB by people who don’t have a clue about what’s going on in the differential dept. You're right.... this is all about adding some strength to the front of the case. It not going to improve sixty fts or change the way the car feels. The problems start with the fact that the diff case is made from what amounts to aluminum pot metal. It’s crap. All that DIRS stuff helps to keep it from breaking by increasing the attachment points to spread the load. The rear has been covered by that. This new thing is doing something similar by stiffening the case at the front. Those ears or wings (whatever you call them) that attach to the cradle in the front are stress points for the front half of the case. The diff bushing lockouts help by limiting the amount of deflection up there. This adds some strength in that area. If I had to pick one I would go with the lockouts to limit that deflection but this is simply re-enforcement that can’t hurt
 


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It’s funny reading all the comments on FB by people who don’t have a clue about what’s going on in the differential dept. You're right.... this is all about adding some strength to the front of the case. It not going to improve sixty fts or change the way the car feels. The problems start with the fact that the diff case is made from what amounts to aluminum pot metal. It’s crap. All that DIRS stuff helps to keep it from breaking by increasing the attachment points to spread the load. The rear has been covered by that. This new thing is doing something similar by stiffening the case at the front. Those ears or wings (whatever you call them) that attach to the cradle in the front are stress points for the front half of the case. The diff bushing lockouts help by limiting the amount of deflection up there. This adds some strength in that area. If I had to pick one I would go with the lockouts to limit that deflection but this is simply re-enforcement that can’t hurt
Yeah, I think the diff. lock out would be good too but this new Race Brace will be much easier to install than the diff. lock out kit & dropping the cradle. If I ever do drop the cradle ?... I'll do it & cradle lock out at same time.
Not sure how much NVH is with the cradle lock out though ?
 


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I'm currently planning to do the cradle lockout using the "one side at a time" method to hopefully eliminate any misalignment by completely dropping the cradle.

If it comes to a complete drop? I'll do the diff lockout at the same time.
 


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Yeah, I think the diff. lock out would be good too but this new Race Brace will be much easier to install than the diff. lock out kit & dropping the cradle. If I ever do drop the cradle ?... I'll do it & cradle lock out at same time.
Not sure how much NVH is with the cradle lock out though ?
Yep. The rear diff bushings can’t be done without dropping the cradle far enough to get to them so this re-enforcing brace is easy by comparison. I can’t speak to NVH. When I had the stock 3.09 in there it was noisy as hell. The ride was very stiff with all the arms and bushings. The 9” is quiet and with the big sidewall 315/60-15s it’s like riding on marshmallows. Plus with the 3.5” race mufflers it’s like.... what noise you talking about?
 


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I'm currently planning to do the cradle lockout using the "one side at a time" method to hopefully eliminate any misalignment by completely dropping the cradle.

If it comes to a complete drop? I'll do the diff lockout at the same time.
I just did the cradle and Diff lock out kits and added the 6 arms. Don’t worry about alignment and dropping the whole cradle to get the wedges in the back mounts with the Diff lock out kit, when you put it back up just position the rubber castle looking tabs right back on the marks they made for themselves and tighten it down shifting it as needed before the final lock down. The hardest part is the 2 top bushings on the front of the Diff, prying down the front to get them up and over the rubber tit is tight, take the big washer off first, then get the lock out bushing in place while prying down using the exhaust hanger bracket as a fulcrum point and a about 24” pry bar and a 3/4”thick wood block on the driver side one as it’s a bit further from the Diff then the passenger side one. You don’t have to take the calipers off to get the cradle low enough, just disconnect the rubber hose mount from the body and the lines will flex down enough to get the wedges in. Be sure to put some lube on the wedges or they won’t go in all the way. I did the rear part first and tightened it back up only to have to losses it again to get the front top bushings on so leave it a bit loose, supported with a floor jack of course, then remove front bolts, Pry down one side at a time, take top washers off, install lock out ring, put washer back in place repeat on drivers side. Put bolts back in, snug up, then snug up the rear bolts then tighten the front then the rear to torque spec which is listed in the BMR instructions. I did the 2 top arms first, then 1/2 the cradle lock out kit (removing the limiters, cutting back the rubber, installed top rings all 4 corners, then went to Diff, finished it, then put cradle back up in place, put lower lock outs in place, tightened it all up then did the lower trailing arms and done. The gas fill tube you only have to take the Smaller worm clamp off, take nut off the tube mount right next to the brake line mount that was removed, both 10 mm 1/4” drive socket fits right in there with only taking 2 of the push pins out not all of them, maybe a cup of gas came out and that was with a just filled to the brim tank of gas. I took my time and was done in about 10 hours alone using 2 floor jacks and 2 jack stands. A impact sure helped with the cradle bolts. Difficulty 1-5 about a 3, not as bad as I thought it would be.
 


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#14
I got the Race Brace & installed it, there was some clearance issue on the passenger side arm of the brace & side of diff. , I grinded down a little on 1 fin on the diff & a corner of the brace arm & it was good. I talked to Bray about it first because I didn't want to be grinding on the brace & not be able to return it if it didn't work, he said go ahead & I could totally destroy it & he would still take it back if I wanted to. Told him he should move the passenger side arm out 1/4" in the future & would be better.

Also nowhere in the instructions does it say you have to drop the exhaust (stock exhaust anyway) to get to the passenger side bolt on the diff (AEV in the way) to bolt the brace on, don't have to drop the whole exhaust, just have to lower it down from the back & middle.

All in all, I like it & that SOB is solid for sure.
 


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vortecd

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Still trying to figure out how it will help
 


Linda's Hell Cat

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I'm going to have the new race brace installed, for their described benefits and see how it helps.

My husband had https://highhorseperformance.com/dr...2015-hellcat-392-challenger-manual-ch9-lc3-m/
The 9inch rear conversion installed in "Top Cat" back in 2015. He already knew from the 2010 Challenger he built me that it was a great part.
If you are going to tace more than drive I would have the DSS 9inch rear conversion installed.
By doing so there are other gear sizes you can use.


Linda :)
 


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Still trying to figure out how it will help
It keeps the front of the diff from moving or torqueing over, just like the rear brace does, now the front & rear of the diff is held solid together.
 


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It keeps the front of the diff from moving or torqueing over, just like the rear brace does, now the front & rear of the diff is held solid together.
The front is bolted to the cradle and the center section is a solid piece. This brace just goes under the 2 mounting bolts. it is tying them together from the bottom but they are already tied together from the top. If the 3rd member were two pieces then I could see the bottom brace would be holding them together from the bottom

The rear adds another mounting point so understand it
 


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Technically the 3rd member is 2 pieces, front & back.
 


vortecd

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Technically the 3rd member is 2 pieces, front & back.
yes but at the front it is one

I'm not an engineer so the concept must be over my head:geek:
 




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