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Stuck Wheel Bolt

AeroF16

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#1
Not on a Hellcat but I have a buddy who has a BMW and they use wheel bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. Well, a previous tire shop over torqued one bolt and I think he has stripped it trying to get it off.

I’m going to give him a hand tomorrow but the BMW crowds, well they just don’t seem to have the hands on experience I know a lot of you guys have, so I’m asking here.

The only options I can think of are trying an extractor set or drilling the head off, sliding the wheel off, then figuring out how to get the shank out.

Anyone have a better idea or words of wisdom haha?
 


1971demon

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#2
Not on a Hellcat but I have a buddy who has a BMW and they use wheel bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. Well, a previous tire shop over torqued one bolt and I think he has stripped it trying to get it off.

I’m going to give him a hand tomorrow but the BMW crowds, well they just don’t seem to have the hands on experience I know a lot of you guys have, so I’m asking here.

The only options I can think of are trying an extractor set or drilling the head off, sliding the wheel off, then figuring out how to get the shank out.

Anyone have a better idea or words of wisdom haha?
Does the bolt spin..or is it seized and not turn?
 


OP
A

AeroF16

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Thread Starter #3
Does the bolt spin..or is it seized and not turn?
Sounds like it’s not moving and the head is stripped.

Been looking at some of these extractor kits online, they look pretty promising. I told him to get some penetrating oil on it and let it sit over night before we get to it tomorrow, hoping that and the extractor is all we need.
 


1971demon

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#4
Sounds like it’s not moving and the head is stripped.

Been looking at some of these extractor kits online, they look pretty promising. I told him to get some penetrating oil on it and let it sit over night before we get to it tomorrow, hoping that and the extractor is all we need.
the oil is your best bet..sounds over torqued and possibly corroded.a good set of channel locks..and beat the head with a hammer..after its been lubed for a couple of days...you just might get lucky....
 


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#5
Try the next size down impact socket, whether it's SAE or Metric, set it on with an air hammer, then slowly take it off with a large tq wrench.

Big box stores also sell specialty sockets purpose made for the same technique.

Heat, cycled, but obviously not destructive to the wheel or hub.

Depending on the scenario, tq and releasing the other bolts in the pattern may slightly change the load on seized bolt.

I also like drilling it out, but remove the opposite wheel first to see what that is going to look like after the wheel is off. (This will probably be easier said than done, the bolt has a large cross section?). Drilling chips that are hot may damage the cosmetic finish?
 


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#6
trade it in:whistle:
 


2fast4u

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#7
Irwin makes a great external bolt remover, they look like a socket but have internal extractor flutes that lock onto bolt head. I have used them with great results.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02108041
 


Paladin06

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I wish @AeroF16 would give up the night time wheel business😁. We all know he wants a Hellcat really really bad and the wife monitors the check book😁
 


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#10
Weld an impact socket on it and get a big ass breaker bar. Use a pipe if needed.
 


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#11
Not on a Hellcat but I have a buddy who has a BMW and they use wheel bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. Well, a previous tire shop over torqued one bolt and I think he has stripped it trying to get it off.

I’m going to give him a hand tomorrow but the BMW crowds, well they just don’t seem to have the hands on experience I know a lot of you guys have, so I’m asking here.

The only options I can think of are trying an extractor set or drilling the head off, sliding the wheel off, then figuring out how to get the shank out.

Anyone have a better idea or words of wisdom haha?
Are these like the AUDI/VW that have the Hex head? Might try hammering a larger hex on there. Maybe from the back some penetrating oil or heat.
 


moparjim

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#12
Bull's way works as well as the extractors.
Penetrating oil would obviously work better sprayed from the back side. Likely not possible.
One thing I notice is people tend to try to use force and basically a steady pressure. If a bolt/nut is going to strip this will pretty much garantee that outcome.
I always jerk on the bar to give the bolt a shock. An impact gun isn't smooth force, similar thinking.
If the bolt is really rounded you may have to drill like you said or alternatively weld a socket to it. Unfortunately that is not as easy as it sounds be cause where you can weld is where the head of the bar goes.
 


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#13
Cheap socket extension welded to the bolt. Weld then remove, works every time.
 


2fast4u

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#14
I have never NOT been able to remove rounded bolt heads with the external extractors, BUT, you do have to make sure to Hammer it on as far as you can. It makes sure the teeth cut into head better and chances of slip are slim to none.
 


Smitty

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#15
I’m guessing there’s not much room so I would try hammering a socket over the bolt or the extractors after the penetrating oil had time to seep in.
 


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#16
I have never NOT been able to remove rounded bolt heads with the external extractors, BUT, you do have to make sure to Hammer it on as far as you can. It makes sure the teeth cut into head better and chances of slip are slim to none.
^^^ This + a long assed breaker bar is the ticket !
 


HWDan

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#17
this was a trade-in, Dodge Charger even ... (not helpful for this situation as these are nuts but other than the probable butchery needed and just for us to visualize the pain AeroF16 will likely be going through ...)

 


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#18
If BMW is anything like VW, the bolts corrode way down at the end of the shank. Almost as if they are sticking out the back of the hub. If you can get to them, get around back and try to spray to opposite end with penetrating oil, as well as the bolt head flange, it case there is some galvanic welding going on there.

Then as others have said, HAMMER on an extractor. This will not only get as much bite as possible, but will also (hopefully) break down the bond a bit....
 


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#19
Torch and heat er up.
 


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#20
^^ Torch the hub from behind the wheel… don’t aim the torch at the wheel face. Once the hub is warm, extract the bolt from the front.

The other suggestions may work, but I doubt there will be a lot of wiggle room between the bolt and the hole the bolt is in. It’s usually a tight fit for just a socket, let alone a welder.
 




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