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Drag radials moving on rim balancing

Speedy!

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#21
Most folks are recommending the Permatex High Tack. I'm gonna try to grab some of that. I found it local in a brush on can, but they make a spray as well and the tire guys would probably like that better.
 


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vortecd

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Thread Starter #22
Most folks are recommending the Permatex High Tack. I'm gonna try to grab some of that. I found it local in a brush on can, but they make a spray as well and the tire guys would probably like that better.
Be interested to see your results
 


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#23
Be interested to see your results
I used to glue valve cover gaskets to the valve cover with it. Held on pretty good
 


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Thread Starter #24
I used to glue valve cover gaskets to the valve cover with it. Held on pretty good
that's apple to apples:rolleyes:
 


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#25
that's apple to apples:rolleyes:
Thank you for your insight professor. Rubber gasket rubber tires.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#26
Thank you for your insight professor. Rubber gasket rubber tires.
That’s what rubber cement is too lol 😂
 


Speedy!

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#27
Yeah it's kinda odd. The old MT ET Street Rs I had moved about 2 inches the first time out then never moved again. These just kept on moving. I even aired them up to 35psi and let them set for 2 weeks after mounting per my normal procedure. Maybe the tire guy used too much lube or something, dunno.

Bead locks would obviously solve it but that means buying new wheels, dealing with the bead locks, etc. Nah.
 


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#28
Yeah it's kinda odd. The old MT ET Street Rs I had moved about 2 inches the first time out then never moved again. These just kept on moving. I even aired them up to 35psi and let them set for 2 weeks after mounting per my normal procedure. Maybe the tire guy used too much lube or something, dunno.

Bead locks would obviously solve it but that means buying new wheels, dealing with the bead locks, etc. Nah.
I never had a set that didn't slip some each run from new. At this point I've run 2 sets of MT 315/50's on Welds and 2 sets of MT 305/45's along with 1 set of the Hoosier DBR's all on Billet Specialties. All 5 sets consistently slipped from the word go.

I am sort of surprised that no one has mentioned trying weatherstrip adhesive(aka gorilla snot). Perhaps it would be too much of a good thing?
 


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#29
I don't want too much, just enough to solve the problem. I looked at a couple different products and the Permatex High Tack is pretty thin but got super sticky when I put a bit on my finger. Figure a little of that around the entire perimeter of the bead should do the trick and not be a huge deal when breaking the tire down.
 


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#30
@Speedy!
One of the things you look for is to see is the tire mounted centered on the wheel. There is even a little rib you can measure to all the way around near the bead. If the ID of the bead area is not tight on the wheel or is eccentric then the tire will not be centered. I am the same as Bo. MOST of my tires move a little each pass. A few will stick and not move. But I DO ask that they use lube as usual because I want the tire mounted using normal procedures and to not be damaged. So, in essence I WANT my tires to move. I had a set that shook and after I ran them the first night they never shook again. Did they move and find that happy spot? Or shave themselves round in the burnout? I have no idea.


Honestly, I think we are a ways off from disrupting the bead in an unsafe manner. Years ago, I had a tire move 360 deg in 4 passes when I was running 10.5 PSI and they were freshly mounted. Bias Ply QTP's on my 71 Demon.

ET STREET R is 14 to 18 PSI HOT. The old recommendation was 12 to 16 Cold. I usually run 17 to 19. Most times 17. So 14 is the bottom and these cars are heavy with a lot of torque so you need about 2 PSI higher to account for that. So 16 and higher should be relatively safe.

The old Tech Bulletin did say that under no circumstances were you to run less than 12 PSI cold. I think that is your safety margin right there. I suspect you are way above that.........
 


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#31
Good info as usual Ron. Mine are tacked up now with Permatex High Tack and mounted dry per my request. I'll pick them up tomorrow and see how they look.

I had been running 18 cold to get the party started. If things were good I'd go up 2psi for 22 hot. At my last race I ended up around 22 to 23 "medium" like in between rounds and the car picked up almost 3mph.
 


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#32
I use hi- tack
They move some first time
Then don’t move much after that. 3375AB19-A2C9-47B3-95B9-1C7C5B547868.jpeg

Dead hooks

Saturday I predicted my et
Within .003
Before each pass.



View attachment 81295
C14DC1DB-FCB3-49BA-B70E-CBEE5E8EAA68.jpeg
745D4B61-3656-4357-904F-C7E93C44D401.jpeg
33074C7F-918D-4593-8543-0429443804EB.jpeg
 


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#33
tire move.JPG
This was after 4 passes with some sticky stuff on my beads after thorough cleaning. I have tried a few things, and they always move and get out of balance at the track.
I run about 18 lbs of air and run high 1.49s-1.57s with these tall tires. My stock tires used to move (the drag radials) but not as much, and I pulled mid 1.4s all day with them.
I now have my own at home tire changer/balancer set up, so I will commit to just rebalancing them after each track day.
ALTHOUGH.... when you make 3-6 passes, car shakes a lot in the upper mph, which is terrible & unNerving. $4k beadlocks & matching fronts are not an option with this Biden admin. :-(
 


Speedy!

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#34
I wonder if just not putting weights on them would help your situation? Mine are balanced and even thought they moved 10 or so inches on the rim I didn't get any vibrations surprisingly.
 


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#35
View attachment 81406
This was after 4 passes with some sticky stuff on my beads after thorough cleaning. I have tried a few things, and they always move and get out of balance at the track.
I run about 18 lbs of air and run high 1.49s-1.57s with these tall tires. My stock tires used to move (the drag radials) but not as much, and I pulled mid 1.4s all day with them.
I now have my own at home tire changer/balancer set up, so I will commit to just rebalancing them after each track day.
ALTHOUGH.... when you make 3-6 passes, car shakes a lot in the upper mph, which is terrible & unNerving. $4k beadlocks & matching fronts are not an option with this Biden admin. :-(
If you use my system you can fix them (re balance) right on the spot without removing the wheels/tires from the car. I have been doing it for YEARS.
 


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#36
ALTHOUGH.... when you make 3-6 passes, car shakes a lot in the upper mph, which is terrible & unNerving. $4k beadlocks & matching fronts are not an option with this Biden admin. :-([/QUOTE]
You have 1000hp going through the parts in your transmission. All’s good. Then you start with the impact wrench action from those out of balance rear wheels. That Jack hammer like impact will do exactly what you think it might do… Check the cost of the Weld Laguna Beadlocks. Then check the cost of a new trans.
 


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Marc W

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#37
Weld Laguna 17x10 Hellcat fit are $750 shipped. 15” are $695.
 


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Weld Laguna 17x10 Hellcat fit are $750 shipped. 15” are $695.
I'm probably going to have to go that way soon.
 


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#39
FWIW Maybe I got lucky this time. Recently mounted a 315-50 -17 Mickey R on a 17x11 Racestar. When I brought the tires and wheels to my tire shop
assistant manager says to me we should dry mount these if possible. I agree. I also brought the tire shop a 10 oz. bottle of isopropyl alcohol with 25% water added. I ask that whatever goes on the tires and wheels to mount them, wipe off both tires and wheels with the alcohol.
before setting the bead. I only have 3 passes now. The 60 foots were 1.46, 1.45 and 1.40. They have not moved at all !
 


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#40
Mine getting remounted dry with the high tack spray seems to have worked thus far. Made 3 passes at Moparty this wekeend and they moved 1" and stopped which is what I've experienced in the past. I'll continue to monitor.
 




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