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Super Stock tech info.

Rollieman

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#41
"And finally, the 2021 Super Stock gets the same Demon calipers, while the 2020 Super Stock has a basic Scat Pack caliper as I understand. Also, 2021 has non-slotted rotors, but 2020's were slotted".

The 2021 SS rear calipers are identical to the Demon, however, the front calipers are one piece monoblocks which are approximately 1/4" thicker than the two piece Demon calipers.

Note: the new front monoblocks take the same pads as the Demon, but, not the same pins which would be too short.
 


TNREDEYE

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#42
I got the chance to weight the car today. Purely by chance it had a half tank of fuel in it. Bone stock. No weight of any sort in it.. nothing in the trunk, etc.
It weighs exactly 4400 lbs on the co-op scale. I went through the motions twice just to be sure since the number was such an even one. I got the same thing both times.
21 SS weight stock 9 13 21.jpeg

So, if I do some easy math I can come up with a pretty close weight for the dragstrip.
I know the weights of my wheels and tires. The fronts are Forgestar 18x5 with the MT 28-6 tire. They weigh 45 lb each.
The rears are Weld 17x11 with the MT 315-50x17 tire. They weigh 56 lb. each.
I read that the stock SS wheel/tire is 60 lb.
Total for stock wheels = 240 lb. Total for my street/drag setup = 202 lb.
So, that's a savings of 38 lb.
I'll be removing the front sway bar. That's 25 lb.
The DIRS is 11 lb.
So:
Car: 4400
Tires: -38
Sway bar: -25
DIRS: +11
That makes a total car weight of 4348 ready to head to the track. I weigh 230 ready to step into the car(incl helmet, etc.).
That should make my starting line weight 4578.
This first trip will be basically to get some sort of base line et and I'll just go from there. Both of my RE's went 6.70's in very similar trim.
 


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Mike Jesse

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Thread Starter #43
Thanks for the info Bo.
I think mine should come in at 4370 lbs. with the rear seat delete and 1/2 tank.
You and I are within 10 lbs. of weight.
 


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#44
Yd Shelbyville,
Remember other than Jello,,, liquads weigh 8.2 lbs a gallon. Your brain full or snot is the heavy est sum wot organ in ta body. Can not be replaced. So, wear the hell mat. Sounds like you are having fun,, ood it is what it's for. I blew alot of safety stuff in Chattanooga cause they did not care. My H/C is 4226 lbs. On a Boost diet.
 


TNREDEYE

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#45
Yesterday:
Here's a broad overview of my day with the SS...

All went well as far as installing the diff brace. It took about 20-25 mins. It gets pretty easy after you do it a few times.
Sway bar removal was simple.
Tire swap was as easy as you'd expect it to be.
I got the time to go for a ride in it before heading to the track. By the time we rolled into the track the car was at 575 miles.
We ran into some spotty light rain a few miles from the track. If we'd been closer to home we'd have turned around and called it a night. Since we were so close we went on. When we got there there were hardly any cars(20, seriously) but the track mgr said they were going to run if they could. An ominous cloud spent a long time slowly blowing over. Eventually they sprayed a token amount of glue on the track, hit it w the dragger for about 5 mins and called us to the lanes.
I knew it was a near waste of time but thought the least I could do was make a few crap runs just to learn about this cars shifting, etc.
With so little glue I knew the 1st run would be my only decent chance of hooking. I did a decent burnout, staged at about 1600 and it left decent. Spun/shook a bit but not terrible. It went 1.50/6.98/99mph. Not earth shattering by any means but a six second pass first hit seemed acceptable.
Second pass was a total waste. Good burnout, left at 1400, didn't go 2 feet before it spun/shook like crazy. Lifted, got back in it and went 1.65/7.21/99mph.
Third pass I sort of soft footed it from an idle. 1.51/7.02/99mph.
At first the mph worried me but the humidity had to be basically 100%. On the last run there were a good many light drops of rain streaking up the windshield as I turned the windshield wipers on in the shutdown.
At that point we called it a night, aired the tires back up to 32 and headed south.

The car is in one piece. It's first trip to the track is behind it. It's been through it's first 45 minute traffic jam(whole 'nother story..).

Also, this car's 1-2 shift is MUCH more appropriate for drag racing than the '21 RE that I had. It's firm. It actually spun the tires a tick on the 1-2 on all 3 runs last night but I'm not sure there was actually any glue that far out. On a well prepped track it'll shift nicely and I don't think there'll be any unneeded harshness or spin.

I found the front end lift to be interesting. Both my RE's basically left flat, near zero frontal lift. That is NOT the case with this thing. It lifts a ton immediately at the hit. Being so used to the other it seems odd watching to hood raise that much. It seems reasonable to think the easy lift at the hit will aid weight transfer.

And, the cloud..


Resized_20210914_184728.jpeg
 


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Mike Jesse

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Thread Starter #46
Well, nothing broke so it wasn't a total waste.
I noticed that the front of the Redeye came up pretty good with the front SB removed.
What settings were you in?
I'm starting to wonder if that Hoosier Bracket Radial might be the hot ticket for these cars.
It may be more forgiving on a track with less than stellar prep.
Ron might chime in with his experience with that tire.

My sales guy claims mine is scheduled to be built on the 21st.
 


TNREDEYE

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#47
I ran all of my best et's with the RE's in straight up Track. I ran the '19 quite a bit and at some good, fast tracks. It went high 1.3xx sixty's at Carolina Dragway with a best of 10.10 that day. It also went 1.407 sixty at Darlington on a 10.04 pass.
I also ran the SS in Track last night. None of the runs the RE's made had anywhere near the free lift of the SS.
I'd say I was on the worst surface I've been on in a looong time last night. I'm hoping to get some runs in on a good surface sometime in the coming weeks to be sure the car is good enough to drag all the way to Houston in January.
 


DRAGRCR

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#48
Just to be clear. You were enabling the power Chiller. The car should be run in straight up Track drive mode, but the Power chiller must be enabled manually on the SRT Dashboard. @TNREDEYE
 


TNREDEYE

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#49
Just to be clear. You were enabling the power Chiller. The car should be run in straight up Track drive mode, but the Power chiller must be enabled manually on the SRT Dashboard. @TNREDEYE
It's possible that I wasn't. I had it in Track, and could hear the fan running so I *thought* the chiller was on. Next time I get it out I'll play around with it and see.
Thanks.
 


DRAGRCR

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#50
It's possible that I wasn't. I had it in Track, and could hear the fan running so I *thought* the chiller was on. Next time I get it out I'll play around with it and see.
Thanks.
My Procedure is start car, press the SRT Button once bringing you to the SRT Dashboard, then I enable the Power Chiller and change the drive mode to track at the top of the page. Do my burnout (the old fashioned way) and race.

With the Power chiller that 99 becomes 102. BAM !

Also note sometimes I had to press a second or third time or press harder or longer to get the power chiller enabled. Other times it came right on. I am pretty sure it won't come on automatically. But maybe I am wrong. I bet your car was just hot! LOL
 


TNREDEYE

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#51
My Procedure is start car, press the SRT Button once bringing you to the SRT Dashboard, then I enable the Power Chiller and change the drive mode to track at the top of the page. Do my burnout (the old fashioned way) and race.

With the Power chiller that 99 becomes 102. BAM !

Also note sometimes I had to press a second or third time or press harder or longer to get the power chiller enabled. Other times it came right on. I am pretty sure it won't come on automatically. But maybe I am wrong. I bet your car was just hot! LOL
I took the car out of the garage after dinner last night and just generally played with the chiller. You are correct in that I did not have it enabled at the track.
My experience with mine was nearly identical to how you described yours. That chiller button seems to work when it wants to. I had to press it numerous times while trying to turn it on and off checking to see if it was actually enabling the chiller. Thanks for bringing that up, it might have taken me a while to realize that since both the RE's automatically enabled the chiller when in track mode.

Three different but similar cars and all three have different chiller controls. Not ideal from a customer standpoint but I guess it just is what it is.

Of course, now I'm wanting to find a chance to get this thing back to the track soon..
 


DRAGRCR

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#52
Of course, now I'm wanting to find a chance to get this thing back to the track soon..
It will be noticably faster............Just rubbing it in.
 


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#53
Nice time with the redeye! How did you ha e it set up? Was it on the stock tune?
You type like me. Have always misses the “v”because our fat fingers hit the space key.
 


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Mike Jesse

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Thread Starter #54
Well after reading the above posts about the Power Chiller, I must have been doing it wrong on the Redeye.
I may have never really enabled it at the track at all.
I feel stupid right now.
 


TNREDEYE

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#55
Well after reading the above posts about the Power Chiller, I must have been doing it wrong on the Redeye.
I may have never really enabled it at the track at all.
I feel stupid right now.
On both of my RE's the Chiller was automatically activated when in TRACK mode.
On the '19, Track is the only mode it will work in period.
On the '21, Apparently it was automatic in Track but could also be activated in the other modes as well.
 


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Mike Jesse

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Thread Starter #56
Well....that's why we started this thread in the first place is to learn and bounce ideas.
Man I'm embarrassed to say the least.
Who knows what the car may have run if I would have had the chiller enabled.
 


TNREDEYE

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#57
Well....that's why we started this thread in the first place is to learn and bounce ideas.
Man I'm embarrassed to say the least.
Who knows what the car may have run if I would have had the chiller enabled.
To my knowledge I never ran either RE in anything other than Track mode, and from that the chiller was activated. And now I've only run the SS without the chiller. So... I have nothing to compare to. Yet. lol

On a different note: Those little round plastic pucks that bolt to the lower subframe to jack the car by. Do any of you know where to get them? I've done a bit of searching and am coming up dry. My other cars ended up w dents in that area from the jack and I don't want to do that to this car.
 


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Mike Jesse

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Thread Starter #58
My 19 Redeye came with the pucks on the rear from the factory.
I bought a pair for the front locations from Teslatap on Ebay for $30.
Another company that makes nice ones is called Liftpadpros.com. Even cheaper.
 


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Hickster

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#59
When running the chiller, listen for the fan noise. It will let you know if it is on or not.
 


TNREDEYE

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#60
My 19 Redeye came with the pucks on the rear from the factory.
I bought a pair for the front locations from Teslatap on Ebay for $30.
Another company that makes nice ones is called Liftpadpros.com. Even cheaper.
Thanks! I just ordered the fronts from Liftpadpros.com. Exactly what I was looking for.
 




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