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What are your winter plans for the car?

Hpindy

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Foiled by my OCD!

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Markp

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Foiled by my OCD!

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Your a evil mastermind.
 


Hpindy

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Your a evil mastermind.
!


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Markp

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!


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Me? Hopefully my in process at the moment corn tune gets me too 900/900 wheel before cinders hit the roads here. For me to get another 9.998 pass and low 10’s repeatedly with my cat bring a stick I need to be able to shift it as fast as I can shift my G5 Capri so the Tranzilla is coming out for inspection and a possible trip to RSG for high rpm shifting massaging and some clutch fine tuning while it’s out as my dis-engage point is way too close to the floor. I did the BMR Diff and Cradle lock outs late summer and added the Speedlogix AAD look alike arms, it helped tame the hop and gave the car a much more planted feel on launch just on a string and level alignment, hoping for better once it’s dialed in better.
Other plans are to finally put my original FAS ruined blower back together with hopefull tighter end clearances and lead side rotor clearance for less blow by loss, high pressure dual lip primary and secondary seals and get 18-18.5 psi out of it on a 2.85 pulley at 6400 rpm, it’s close as my spare with the FAS plate made 17.85 psi in -800 air last week and except for a billet inlet plate it’s stock.
Maybe a set of Demon rear springs to help the launches. I do1.50 pretty consistently and pulled off 1 1.39 60 during my 9.998 one time glory run, be nice to be in the 1.4’s all the time. And maybe some lipo suction as she’s pretty fat and could stand to loose 2-300 lbs, I just don’t know where all that’s going to come from as I enjoy all its luxuries and don’t know if a tenth is worth it or not?? Fluid changes every where right down to Power Steering and brake fluids. I don’t want to wish for a long winter but that’s a tall list for a one man 56 year old band lol
 


72 440 Barracuda

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#46
I have new wheels and tires to iron out, my new driveshaft arrived, my rear brace has been received, and my Tazer (line loc) is ready to install.
I know none of these are necessarily going to make more power, but this should allow me to get that power to the ground and hopefully put me in the low 11's with my manual trans - as long as I can get the nut behind the wheel to cooperate...
 


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#47
Well the road racers wish list is similar to drag racing it sounds. We all need to figure out how to get massive power to the road! I have not been able to do that successfully yet. This REWB has been a trip for two seasons now. I am very close I think. But, to think about even optimizing a 93 octane tune and getting a few more horses is not happening yet. Thankfully, all of my major money mods are installed, all the expensive spare racing wheels are paid for. I do not plan on paying anyone to do any labor on it this winter, as now that I have a DIY alignment kit myself, those few hundred dollar visits to the shop are finished also.


1. A minor item leads my list. I have all the AAD adjustable control arms installed front and back. Except I still need their non-adjustable rear bottom tension arm. The other three arms are adjustable back there and that is enough! I have two other arms from others for that position. I don't like either for different reasons. I really like the Spheriflex bushings AAD uses because they are stout, sturdy, stiff and QUIET. I have one rule on my mods and I have been successful on this car. The mods must retain its excellent street manners, and not cause my most important passenger to ever tell me it rides different (stiff), and she cannot ever think it is noisier.
2. Hoping the guys on here can offer the new lightweight rotors we have been hearing about. While my Demon Performance rotors have life remaining, I am excited about upgrading the stopping power potentially, cooler running and losing over 50 lbs. of unsprung weight.
3. Going to be working with my front suspension settings. Not buying more stuff, but some time will be spent in the garage. Unlike the rear which looks happy to work flat (near zero toe, and not much camber), the front needs much more camber because currently it eats the shoulders off of the very expensive tires. Trial and error needs done on the front alignment. The directions, comments, and feedback on the settings are not happening and/or make no sense. For example I have seen the comment; "we have our best luck with the -7 tabs up front". Great, except the -2/-4 tabs give toe readings off the chart! Using a double distance more negative -7? WTF? I will need to get in and begin to change BOTH tabs against the specific directions from the manufacturer to only change the one tab on the "camber" side of the arm (hint that is when I was successful in the rear with getting the toe dialed in, finally). Then I will need to get in and verify the caster also. To make it worse the front left and right of our cars' front suspension are not identical. Notice the OEM camber/caster difference between the left and right? Toe also if you have a string set and can verify the difference between the sides. They are fundamentally different from the factory with NO means of adjustment, except toe. However, the front AAD arm gives us the ability to really change things around. So like with the rear, this old guy will just work it through with trial and error and get it right. When I have the answer, maybe I will author a Wiki page for us.
4. I need an appointment soon with the wrap people. My windshield protector has run double its predicted one year life, and needs replaced. Also I am going to retire and replace the rear flair wraps, as they have sacrificed themselves and done a great job in very hazardous conditions.

So far the mods have made it a better street machine! It is not louder (great bushings are worth their cost), it may ride better (KW front variable rate springs) and can accelerate in the low three second range to 60 MPH. I am down to a little squeal in the rear from the old SX tension arm bushings sometimes. I am sure the AAD tension arms will make that right, because they have been working in two other locations on the car perfectly.

The sheet metal will get its annual clay-polish-wax until it becomes near flawless. That is about it. Watching the sales for brake pads, as they are always needed and are very expensive. Stock up the consumables, schedule some trips, wish and pray the Rona-Virus to go away. Let’s hope 2021 makes this shit year go away quick and give us a fresh start.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #48
Skip the wax and go ceramic coating. You'll never look back.
 


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#49
Skip the wax and go ceramic coating. You'll never look back.
Speedy, do you think the self applied works as good as going out and paying a bunch for it?
 


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Thread Starter #50
I've done both the pro stuff and the DIY. DIY is about half as good as the pro but still 10x better than standard wax.
 


BULL

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#51
Speedy, do you think the self applied works as good as going out and paying a bunch for it?
I've done both the pro stuff and the DIY. DIY is about half as good as the pro but still 10x better than standard wax.


After @Speedy! twisted my arm, I did mine with the CSL and the EXOv4. I don't have a professional example to directly compare to, but the longevity of this stuff compared to the was wax I used to do is in a whole other universe.

20200529_162045lg.jpg
 


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Speedy!

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The best part for me is not really having to hand wash the car anymore. I literally drive it through a touchless and use a blower to blow it dry and it's spotless. Nothing can stick to it.
 


DGatzby

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#53
Wow. Okay I am in because @Speedy! that is the way I wash it with just wax etc. I am in. In a few months I will ask here and make sure I get the right product.
 


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#54
I’m going to noodle on my 60’ too. A 1.09 would be good. 🤗
I'm going to go the other way. Those super low 60s are hard on the driveline when you're trying to move a 4600 lb street car. 1.35ish is good enough. We will be going alot faster ...but not doing it at the 60 ft as we want the car to live and be reliable. Over the winter, the goal is an 8 seond daily driver with minimal mods that doesn't break every 3rd pass. We will continue work in the winter to get there.
 


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#55
I'm going to go the other way. Those super low 60s are hard on the driveline when you're trying to move a 4600 lb street car. 1.35ish is good enough. We will be going alot faster ...but not doing it at the 60 ft as we want the car to live and be reliable. Over the winter, the goal is an 8 seond daily driver with minimal mods that doesn't break every 3rd pass. We will continue work in the winter to get there.
Oh I don’t disagree with that. That’s why I’m going to one of the Strange Dragpak 4-link rears tied into a 7.5 cert cage. Car weight is coming down to 4200. 498A7711-2A41-4793-9F1B-3AD879215905.jpeg
 


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Throwing an F1x Procharger on the 426 stroker. Have to rebuild the stroker because the N/A compression is currently 13:1. Need to get on the boost train so I can run with you guys :)
 


BULL

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Oh I don’t disagree with that. That’s why I’m going to one of the Strange Dragpak 4-link rears tied into a 7.5 cert cage. Car weight is coming down to 4200. View attachment 25906


Look at all of those pretty nickels....
 


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After @Speedy! twisted my arm, I did mine with the CSL and the EXOv4. I don't have a professional example to directly compare to, but the longevity of this stuff compared to the was wax I used to do is in a whole other universe.

View attachment 25839
That looks awesome Bull

My car is black & I m nervous to give it a whirl
A buddy of mine was wet sanding someones car last year after they attempted some form of ceramic coating themselves
 


BULL

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That looks awesome Bull

My car is black & I m nervous to give it a whirl
A buddy of mine was wet sanding someones car last year after they attempted some form of ceramic coating themselves

I practiced on an old beater first, my opinion, if you're good at putting down wax and understand that process already, then this isn't much different.

I actually talked with tech support and there suggestion was "if in doubt, 'overwork' the area", other than that, follow the directions. When I was done, I really felt silly for ever being intimidated by it.

.02
 


Bowtie Guy

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I practiced on an old beater first, my opinion, if you're good at putting down wax and understand that process already, then this isn't much different.

I actually talked with tech support and there suggestion was "if in doubt, 'overwork' the area", other than that, follow the directions. When I was done, I really felt silly for ever being intimidated by it.

.02
Looks like it could be time consuming

I ll do a little research on it
 




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