Stock Fuel Rails, why they don’t keep up

[16GoManGoHC2]

Yeah, I thought there was just enough lip left for the O-ring but it looks like if you go any more it will suck that O-ring in.

Yep, that’s why it’s left there, it’s about .030” thick, plenty enough to keep the oring where it needs to stay.

 

[Mean Cat]

Yep, that’s why it’s left there, it’s about .030” thick, plenty enough to keep the oring where it needs to stay.

Yeah, good job, I'm not questioning your work, I know you know what your doing, just looked close.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Where did my engine go?????

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I thinks it’s sleeping under this blanket??

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Yep, there it is!! Poor thing must have been tired and needed some rest.
But O my God, it looks like it’s missing a few pieces????

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

10:1 here’s the next fuel line restriction, the connection with the green lock. Most likely its going to be a rolled over connector just like what was found at the fuel rail connection. And my hunch is back where the line starts at the fuel pumps I’m going to find the same thing. I’ll post pictures of the findings once I get there, first have to test fit new pistons and rings to see how much the block may need honed for correct clearance’s. The bearings, journals, and crank look like new yet. They’ve taken a beating these last 10,000 miles, testament that PUP0-40 is a good oil.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here’s a view of the rod and crank pressure bearing sides of the bearings, they don’t get much better looking then this enduring probably 1100 crank HP going to 6600 rpm’s over and over as I’m not easy on her EVER. I’ll be replacing them with genuine OEM bearings again for sure.

 

[Mean Cat]

Here’s a view of the rod and crank pressure bearing sides of the bearings, they don’t get much better looking then this enduring probably 1100 crank HP going to 6600 rpm’s over and over as I’m not easy on her EVER. I’ll be replacing them with genuine OEM bearings again for sure. View attachment 37561 View attachment 37562 View attachment 37564 View attachment 37565 View attachment 37566 View attachment 37567

Damn brother, did you just get bored & decided to pull the engine.

Bearings do look pretty good.

Speaking of oil, I've been trying to decide witch oil to use in my new Ram truck, either Pennzoil or Mobil 1 ?... I think I'll use Pennzoil, since I use it (PUP 0/40) in the HC too, & after seeing it in action in yours.

Good luck on your build !

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Guess that will about do it for the warranty?!
LOL. 🤣

 

[Speedy!]

Wow I missed a lot LOL

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Damn brother, did you just get bored & decided to pull the engine.

Yea, shoveling snow every other day drove me lu lu and I cracked LOL. No, actually upgrading pistons and rods was a winter project dreamed of for this year but time and energy not there BUT my boy after being back in college classes just one week came home sick, tested positive for COVID so I’ve been hiding in the garage as much as possible and yes, got bored and said WTF and dug in balls deep and here we are, a totally stripped block waiting to go to the machine shop soon as torque plate from a buddy arrives to hone it with. Then it’s put the puzzle back together. Started with taking the trans to change out the clutch and just kept going. LOTS of interesting things found. Here’s one, this was probably some of my knock, this is why steel scatter shields are needed. This is what I was greeted with when I first crawled under her, simple little bolt came out of the TO bearing assembly, just think of it was the clutch itself how long the flimsy bell would have contained it. Warning, M6 owners may not want to view these pictures, you may not want to flog on your baby no more and turn sissy and go auto.😂

PS, never found the bolt, just the hole it was supposed to be in.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Time for this stuff

 

[Speedy!]

That looks familiar LOL. Be SURE to check the throw out bearing measurements. I had my trans out three times in the old car due to a spacing issue. Car shifted fine cruising around town but as soon as I was at the track it wouldn't allow shifts. Ended up being the TOB distance to the clutch. McLeod had sent the wrong disk pack or something.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

That looks familiar LOL. Be SURE to check the throw out bearing measurements. I had my trans out three times in the old car due to a spacing issue. Car shifted fine cruising around town but as soon as I was at the track it wouldn't allow shifts. Ended up being the TOB distance to the clutch. McLeod had sent the wrong disk pack or something.

I took a shit ton of measurements for comparison purposes, I don’t want to be playing musical transmissions for sure. Just putting a steel bell on can be a days work or more as for me it’s got to be on center within .002 TIR and parallel to the block within that amount as well. Last one I did was a 2 day debacle and these bells aren’t light, that one I did under the car, this ones going to be done on the bench.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

For those that think it takes a shit ton of tools to do this what’s on the bench is all it took, trans and all.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

For those that think it takes a shit ton of tools to do this what’s on the bench is all it took, trans and all.
View attachment 37626

Not seeing any beer in that picture!

 

[Speedy!]

That and don't see the pry bar either lol

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Not seeing any beer in that picture!

Unfortunately havent had a beer in weeks, just haven’t been in the mood, too cold here. I get on a hot tea with honey and lemon kick in the winter. Plus when I do this kind of stuff I usually do it early in the day, morning preferred so I’m bright eyed, not tired, and don’t have to hurry. I document each step and the assembly process take that check list and assembly goes in reverse order so nothing gets forgotten. As the engine came apart each part and it’s associated hardware gets bagged and sealed to keep them clean and will get cleaned many times before final assembly. Anything in the oil galleys past the filter ends up permanently in the main and rod bearings on startup, the cleaner it stays the less there is to remove later. I’ll make up for the missed beers come spring and summer

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Unfortunately havent had a beer in weeks, just haven’t been in the mood, too cold here. I get on a hot tea with honey and lemon kick in the winter. Plus when I do this kind of stuff I usually do it early in the day, morning preferred so I’m bright eyed, not tired, and don’t have to hurry. I document each step and the assembly process take that check list and assembly goes in reverse order so nothing gets forgotten. As the engine came apart each part and it’s associated hardware gets bagged and sealed to keep them clean and will get cleaned many times before final assembly. Anything in the oil galleys past the filter ends up permanently in the main and rod bearings on startup, the cleaner it stays the less there is to remove later. I’ll make up for the missed beers come spring and summer

I did the disassembly and reassembly of my Roadrunner in the same manner. Took lots of pics too! Good thing as the resto took me over 10 yrs!

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Here she is, bare ass naked not even panty’s on, please, keep both hands on the keyboards guys 😂
Tomorrow get out the replacement pistons and check piston to wall clearance and preliminary ring gap. And then on to the heads. COVID quarantining in the garage isn’t so bad after all LOL.