Picking up a M6 Hellcat

[1971demon]

Cheap therapy

hope he gets better

 

[AeroF16]

hope he gets better

There’s no fixing whats wrong with me!

 

[AeroF16]

Quick tip if you’re removing the 2-piece driveshaft by yourself. Makes life way easier. Surprisingly, this is the actual technique in the factory service manual too haha, just thought it was something me and the guys used to do because we didn’t have a better tool.

 

[AeroF16]

So the trans is on hold while I wait for the grease to show up. Decided to change the oil and diff fluid today.

I got just under a quart of fluid out of the diff. The spec calls for 1.16 quarts to fill, I put almost 1.3 quarts in until it started leaking out the fill hole.

Are these known for being under filled at the factory?

 

[BULL]

So the trans is on hold while I wait for the grease to show up. Decided to change the oil and diff fluid today.

I got just under a quart of fluid out of the diff. The spec calls for 1.16 quarts to fill, I put almost 1.3 quarts in until it started leaking out the fill hole.

Are these known for being under filled at the factory?

I didn't measure it when I changed mine, but I do recall that when I stuck my finger in it and curled it , I wasn't able to dip my finger into the oil.

 

[AeroF16]

I didn't measure it when I changed mine, but I do recall that when I stuck my finger in it and curled it , I wasn't able to dip my finger into the oil.

I didn’t even think about it until I went to empty the drained gear oil out of my oil pan and thought to myself “that doesn’t look like much fluid”, so then I poured it back into the container the new stuff came out of to get a rough measurement.

 

[AeroF16]

I’m also going to flush the brake fluid soon. Since I have the clutch hydraulic line off and capped, I guess now would be a good time to flush that line.

Thinking I’ll just get most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill with new fluid, then put the pressure bleeder on with a little pressure. Just let it run until new flew comes out of the end of the line, then release pressure and cap the line.

Then, once the trans is back in and everything is all hooked up, I’ll bleed the brakes.

That pass the common sense test or is there a better way to do it? I’m probably going to put a new throw out bearing on, so that’ll be bench bled with new fluid too.

 

[BULL]

I’m also going to flush the brake fluid soon. Since I have the clutch hydraulic line off and capped, I guess now would be a good time to flush that line.

Thinking I’ll just get most of the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill with new fluid, then put the pressure bleeder on with a little pressure. Just let it run until new flew comes out of the end of the line, then release pressure and cap the line.

Then, once the trans is back in and everything is all hooked up, I’ll bleed the brakes.

That pass the common sense test or is there a better way to do it? I’m probably going to put a new throw out bearing on, so that’ll be bench bled with new fluid too.

I have a page in the Wiki about how much fluid gets you how much of a change in new vs old that you might find interesting.

 

[BULL]

https://www.hellcatforum.org/thread...ystem-fluid-flush-or-fluid-type-upgrade.3160/

 

[AeroF16]

I have a page in the Wiki about how much fluid gets you how much of a change in new vs old that you might find interesting.

Right but the fluid in the hydraulics of the clutch would never move, it would just stay trapped in there, correct?

 

[BULL]

Right

My post was for when you bleed the brakes.

 

[AeroF16]

Have you done my Barton spring mod from the Wiki to fix that??

; )

I think I’m going to do this over the next few days. I didn’t remove the shifter when I removed the trans but I’d definitely recommend it. I will remove the shifter before reinstalling for sure.

The 1-2 shift bothers me a bit too but maybe I just have it adjusted too far towards the driver. Maybe re-adjusting it toward the passenger side will be a more natural pull.

 

[AeroF16]

Got the parts in today. Shout out to Steve White’s parts department. I ordered on Monday, called to ask them when they thought it would ship and they said the next day based on needing a couple bolts from their local warehouse. When it didn’t ship Tuesday, I called Wednesday and they said one bolt (that I don’t really need, just bought some to have), was on back order.

I asked them to ship it without that part and they got it to FedEx and overnighted it to me, since they originally told me I would have the parts by today (prior to the back order issue). I didn’t request them to overnight and I didn’t pay for it, very good customer service.

Since I was ordering a new throw out bearing and gaskets for the exhaust (connection between manifold and cats), I ordered new driveshaft bolts. The factory service manual says you should replace them but that you can reuse them if you can’t get replacements, but you have to apply lock and seal. Interesting how they have it on two different spots on the bolt and how, in the middle, it’s heavily built up. Definitely not how I would’ve applied it haha.

 

[AeroF16]

Another observation, if your car sits for a while (like over the Winter) in an environment that isn’t climate controlled, the clutch pressure plate and other metal parts inside are going to rust due to moisture buildup.

Here is a picture of the current throw out bearing. Take a look at the four asymmetric rust “dots” on the face of the bearing. That is where the bearing interfaces with the fingers on the pressure plate. My guess is that happened from sitting and not being used. Why aren’t there more rust spots on the bearing face from the other fingers of the pressure plate? I don’t know, maybe these were positioned at the low 6 o’clock position when it was stored and the moisture built up worse in that area?

All that to say, I’d probably get it up to temp and drive around the neighborhood once in while (weekly?) if you can. Honestly though, the bearing still spins freely with no resistance, so it probably doesn’t matter from a performance aspect, just from a cosmetic @BULL OCD aspect haha.

 

[BULL]

Another observation, if your car sits for a while (like over the Winter) in an environment that isn’t climate controlled, the clutch pressure plate and other metal parts inside are going to rust due to moisture buildup.

Here is a picture of the current throw out bearing. Take a look at the four asymmetric rust “dots” on the face of the bearing. That is where the bearing interfaces with the fingers on the pressure plate. My guess is that happened from sitting and not being used. Why aren’t there more rust spots on the bearing face from the other fingers of the pressure plate? I don’t know, maybe these were positioned at the low 6 o’clock position when it was stored and the moisture built up worse in that area?

All that to say, I’d probably get it up to temp and drive around the neighborhood once in while (weekly?) if you can. Honestly though, the bearing still spins freely with no resistance, so it probably doesn’t matter from a performance aspect, just from a cosmetic @BULL OCD aspect haha.

View attachment 64557

I can't say what mine looks like, but you're absolutely correct, that would drive me batty...

: (

 

[AeroF16]

I can't say what mine looks like, but you're absolutely correct, that would drive me batty...

: (

You’re in a dry enough climate that this may not be an issue. I bought my car from a guy in PA.

Or maybe it is an issue and you should go pull the car apart just to know for sure! I mean, how could you ever sleep at night without knowing? It could be sitting there, rusting, as we speak!

 

[BULL]

Or maybe it is an issue and you should go pull the car apart just to know for sure! I mean, how could you ever sleep at night without knowing? It could be sitting there, rusting, as we speak!

You must think I'm a dumb, crayon-eating, Jarhead that is going to fall for your bait...






Maybe I'll put it up on the Quickjack this weekend and see what I can see with a borescope???


I don't recall, is there an adequate inspection hole on this trans???

 

[AeroF16]

You must think I'm a dumb, crayon-eating, Jarhead that is going to fall for your bait...






Maybe I'll put it up on the Quickjack this weekend and see what I can see with a borescope???


I don't recall, is there an adequate inspection hole on this trans???

For this, I don’t think so.

 

[AeroF16]

So guess I should go ahead and remove the CDV. I haven’t looked into it too much yet but I just remove the black O-ring, then remove the blue orifice behind it? Do I reinstall the O-ring?

This is a pic of the new bearing. The old bearing still has the blue orifice in it but does not have the O-ring, that’s MIA. Wonder if the previous owner thought he was doing the delete by just removing the O-ring or if it wasn’t installed at the factory where the bearing assembly was built.

@BULL you said you did this and couldn’t really tell much of a difference?

 

[BULL]

So guess I should go ahead and remove the CDV. I haven’t looked into it too much yet but I just remove the black O-ring, then remove the blue orifice behind it? Do I reinstall the O-ring?

This is a pic of the new bearing. The old bearing still has the blue orifice in it but does not have the O-ring, that’s MIA. Wonder if the previous owner thought he was doing the delete by just removing the O-ring or if it wasn’t installed at the factory where the bearing assembly was built.

@BULL you said you did this and couldn’t really tell much of a difference?

View attachment 64620

If I did, it was subtle.