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What's next....I need a better 60'

Mean Cat

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They are all made by the same manufacturer ( moog) and sold by different resellers .

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OK , even the Eibach's you think ?
 


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This is great info, no worries there.



Something confusing me here on the tire deal. How do you learn the tire when track conditions constantly change? I won't get much opportunity to make 100s of passes a season unfortunately, I'm gonna have to get there a bit faster.
I envy people who have access to tracks that respect racers with cars like us and provide a decent racing surface to do our work on. Getting hundreds of passes is something many of us just don’t get. In our case out here the only thing left are the NHRA Tracks that are only interested in big events with fuel funny cars. Las Vegas Strip, Wild Horse Phoenix, LA Fairgrounds Pomona. They provide a “public service” with the open street car stuff once a month to say they are keeping the public safe from street racers. No point in track prep because the street tire cars just tear it up. Between the turbo imports oiling down the track and the Mustangs crashing, the red lights on the tree are on half the time. Occasionally Vegas will have a special night where for a extra fee they will have lanes for drag tire cars and will prep a couple times a night for them to run. The point being that open T&T’s don’t provide much in the way of practice and in my case a 6 hour night will net three passes. I’ll make a suggestion that Speedy probably isn’t interested in, but here it is... 15” conversion with beadlock wheels to go down on the pressure when necessary. M/T Radial Pro tires. They are so much better than the ET-R’s... there is no comparison. You can run the 275 that is 28” tall and run it down to 15 lbs if necessary. It is so consistent compared to the R’s that you will sixty ft even when they’re spinning. This is drag racing. Get a drag tire. 🤨
 


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This is great info, no worries there.



Something confusing me here on the tire deal. How do you learn the tire when track conditions constantly change? I won't get much opportunity to make 100s of passes a season unfortunately, I'm gonna have to get there a bit faster.
The answer is simple. You test at multiple tracks in different conditions. Like I said earlier, it takes me 60-100 passes. If you're not willing to put in the work, you should consider adjusting your expectations accordingly. There is no magic mod you can buy that is gonna get you a consistent 1.3x sixty foot on almost any track-especially on that tire. I know it's not the answer you wanted to hear, but it is the answer to your question nonetheless.
 


Phast Hemi

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I envy people who have access to tracks that respect racers with cars like us and provide a decent racing surface to do our work on. Getting hundreds of passes is something many of us just don’t get. In our case out here the only thing left are the NHRA Tracks that are only interested in big events with fuel funny cars. Las Vegas Strip, Wild Horse Phoenix, LA Fairgrounds Pomona. They provide a “public service” with the open street car stuff once a month to say they are keeping the public safe from street racers. No point in track prep because the street tire cars just tear it up. Between the turbo imports oiling down the track and the Mustangs crashing, the red lights on the tree are on half the time. Occasionally Vegas will have a special night where for a extra fee they will have lanes for drag tire cars and will prep a couple times a night for them to run. The point being that open T&T’s don’t provide much in the way of practice and in my case a 6 hour night will net three passes. I’ll make a suggestion that Speedy probably isn’t interested in, but here it is... 15” conversion with beadlock wheels to go down on the pressure when necessary. M/T Radial Pro tires. They are so much better than the ET-R’s... there is no comparison. You can run the 275 that is 28” tall and run it down to 15 lbs if necessary. It is so consistent compared to the R’s that you will sixty ft even when they’re spinning. This is drag racing. Get a drag tire. 🤨
Agree that most of the big time nhra tracks don't really have enough tnts for amateur racers to get a lot of work in. As a result , I have to test at events sometimes. I've travelled 6 to 13 hours and rented the whole track when I had to...all in search of good data. My first real hot weather testing in the current car was in clay city in May ( about 8 hours away). Sometimes, I'll intentionally look for bad prep just to get data and find out how I need to set the car up to get down it. My OCD won't let me be until I'm confident in my car and how it's setup.

I agree with you on the 15s, although not a fan of beadlocks on a stock/passenger car driveline. That little bit of tire walk is saving your axles, driveshaft, trans input shaft, etc.
 


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Nice :( I got rid of BMR stuff after seeing some of it break and thought I was upgrading to these. They look and feel like quality parts, they’re adjusting and lock up method looks sound as long as the bolts don’t come loose. I replaced the lock up hardware with grade 12.9 high quality stuff. Damn, now you’ve got me concerned again :(
Oh great, you "got rid of" those parts by selling them to me. So you sold me something that you were afraid would break on your car?
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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Oh great, I'm the one that bought your parts. So I bought something that's likely to break on me?
Probably not but I got a killer deal on the AAD Knock offs and went with them, only to hear their inferior too. I doubt us guys under 1100 wheel on even a 315/50-17 are going to break any of this stuff. Now on a 15” tire maybe, I got over my worries after a few hits. BMR wouldn’t be in business if their stuff broke that easy and frequently.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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Just be sure to lock tight it all after your alignment. My plan was to douse it all with loctite 290 which is a wicking loctite for use on assembled and set assemblies. It’s works great, it will get right inside and deep into all the treads and nuts. I use it and other loctite products all the time in work on Industrial equipment for over 25 years. You can even set bearings in place with it just be sure to not let it wick inside a bearing or on a race that’s supposed to float for thermal expansion.
 


Hpindy

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Probably not but I got a killer deal on the AAD Knock offs and went with them, only to hear their inferior too. I doubt us guys under 1100 wheel on even a 315/50-17 are going to break any of this stuff. Now on a 15” tire maybe, I got over my worries after a few hits. BMR wouldn’t be in business if their stuff broke that easy and frequently.
Oh great, you "got rid of" those parts by selling them to me. So you sold me something that you were afraid would break on your car?
I think you guys are over thinking this . There are many different variables to stuff breaking .

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Hpindy

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@Speedy!

If you are hooking off the line the you may have to add more timing down low to generate more power . But there is that fine line of just enough power and tire spin .

All the suspension mods help if you can't get traction now .

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Thread Starter #170
Well, the difference between the two slips below was only 2 deg of timing from about 3,000 to 5,000 RPM. Took out 2 deg and didn't spin, so it's definitely a fine line but I want low 1.4 high 1.3x 60s that I know this car is capable of.

mshsky_r5_small.jpg mshsky_r6_small.jpg
 


Hpindy

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Well, the difference between the two slips below was only 2 deg of timing from about 3,000 to 5,000 RPM. Took out 2 deg and didn't spin, so it's definitely a fine line but I want low 1.4 high 1.3x 60s that I know this car is capable of.

View attachment 20288 View attachment 20289
I've started playing with timing down low ( 2000-3000 rpms) to get lower 60's and better traction . I only got one 1.39 sixty foot so I wanted to replicate it . Unfortunately if the track can't hold the car I have been pulling timing out . 1 degree makes all the difference but unfortunately the 60's will suffer .
I'm hoping this weekend if the track prep is awesome I will test a few different tunes and get some data to share with everyone .

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16GoManGoHC2

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Good Track prep definitely makes a world of difference. My only 1.39 60’ and 9 second run was all from outstanding track prep. My car never hooked as hard and stuck like on fly paper as the run on a race prep track netted, wish I could have got a second pass on it as I would have tried leaving even harder.
 


fubar569

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So far so good. Nothing moved and all stayed tight and no signs of rubbing.
G’s, pulled .85. On my 9.998 pass at the track pulled 1.68 G’s. Hoping to get to the track again soon.
View attachment 20173 View attachment 20174 View attachment 20175
It looks like NJ_redeye has substantial interference with his AAD install and using the HHP shortened stock end links.

If you do anything that requires taking the wheels off in the near future...make sure you inspect the arm and bar closely for contact. It will be very noticeable.

I had theorized the HHP and Bwoody should be the same length in my other thread. We found stock to be roughly 10.25" and the StolenLogix billet links to be 8.25".

Reported interference so far on:

StolenLogix billet links
HHP shortened factory links

You currently have the Bwoody which I've also ordered to collect data/feedback.

Interesting to note is AAD hasnt seen a widespread issue with shorter links causing interference and also that Bwoody never did reply to an inquiry regarding the length of their links and a description of what we are seeing.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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I have my wheels off now changing axles, can’t see anything that rubbed but I will keep my eyes peeled for such. THANKS for the info!!
 


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Here ya go Speedy .


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I am still running stock tires on my M6 - so I struggle to get the '60 under 2.0 - Now I see what the potential is for the car when traction off the line isn't an issue... although I am not likely to ever see that, since I race it once year at best...
 


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Thread Starter #178
I have HHP shortened end links. I'll have to get with Parker at AAD and see what's up.
 


Marc W

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You can get adjustable end links. Mine are Carlyle. I have their 15” conversion with the billet spindle that requires a really short link. I haven’t measured it but it is REALLY short. Adjusted to fit, it doesn’t hit my AAD arm. 76CEEAEC-18CC-4558-BBE7-EDC98CD9F4A5.jpeg 7D6EF3DC-2FC9-4A96-A7D9-792659013A46.jpeg
 


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I have HHP shortened end links. I'll have to get with Parker at AAD and see what's up.
Usually its seen on 15" kits and arent aware of it happening with a typical shortened link on a 17" package...according to Zach anyways:

"To touch on the sway bars hitting our arms with shorter endlinks. I have seen it 2 times, They were both on 15 inch cars with very short sway bar endlinks. If you purchase shorter sway bar endlinks with 17s it should clear no problem!!!"

That's just not what we are seeing lately though...so there must be multiple contributing factors that we are missing. There's definitely something happening though.
 




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