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What's next....I need a better 60'

16GoManGoHC2

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It was these
21FD6D57-10FA-4624-AA17-2BAF2D359384.png 5304A1D4-525E-4DBA-B48A-8A34D0CED31E.png E8DEA855-E22A-4648-87A0-DAEEF0B91602.png
 


16GoManGoHC2

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You will get the camber but still have all the flex and squishiness of stock .

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Kind of figured

I could only image how harsh these would have been?

AA916E40-6032-4212-94AB-3991421D42C5.jpeg
 


Marc W

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My $.02 on camber settings.... I’m running the +.3 on mine now. I had it as high as +.8 (that was bad news for me). All our cars are different, so a one size fits all isn’t the way to look at this. What everybody needs to understand first is, the negative camber that the stock alignment comes with is not the best for drag racing. The higher your hp is..... the worse it is. You want the tire square (toe) and flat (camber) on the track when you launch at the starting line. Here’s the thing though..... after the initial hit where the weight transfer moves the camber toward negative, the weight is going to come off those tires and they start to go back to round and move back to that positive setting again. This is where too much positive camber (+.8) came back to bite me. I’m making enough power where the tire growing back to round and rolling back onto the outside edge lost traction at around 100mph and got scary. So I backed it off a half degree and it is much better. Too much of a good thing is not a good thing. On to toe...... Yes you want zero. When you come off the line, tow (just like camber) moves. It moves toward “in”. That’s actually good. In my experience with my car... toe in is more directionally stable. My car wants to go in a straight line with toe in. Toe out is squirrelly. The rear wants to come around with toe out. All of these things are more pronounced with the more power you make. So... study, study and eat your peas. 😝
 


Hpindy

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We destroyed speedys thread lol

But I agree with marc . I will also add there will be some personal preference involved also

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Haha. Apologies to Speedy. All this is kinda related to his quest to see good sixtys so there is that.
 


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#speedysthreadslifematters
 


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Kind of figured

I could only image how harsh these would have been?

View attachment 20230
Not so much harsh, BUT they make noise. The Energy Suspension bushing (red) grease fed has failed me on their toe arm. No problem, the AAD Toe arms are about to replace the BMR units, then I’ll have AAD adjustable in all the right places in the rear and their one arm up front also. Great products!
 


Markp

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I just ordered the BMR cradle lockout kit, BMR safety loop, ADD drag pack suspension package. Plus I have Demon springs already here in my office waiting to be installed. Oh ya and I have AFE race exhaust in the box also. Hopping for 1.40 60s with this setup.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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I just ordered the BMR cradle lockout kit, BMR safety loop, ADD drag pack suspension package. Plus I have Demon springs already here in my office waiting to be installed. Oh ya and I have AFE race exhaust in the box also. Hopping for 1.40 60s with this setup.
You doing the BMR Differential lock out kit too while you got it all down?
 


Hpindy

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I just ordered the BMR cradle lockout kit, BMR safety loop, ADD drag pack suspension package. Plus I have Demon springs already here in my office waiting to be installed. Oh ya and I have AFE race exhaust in the box also. Hopping for 1.40 60s with this setup.
What about the DIRS brace?

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Markp

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What about the DIRS brace?

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No DIRS brace. I like to live dangerously.
 


Mean Cat

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You can use moog K100173 on the rear upper forward arm to get plus or minus 1.5 degrees camber with the stock arms.
I made a suggestion of using these on another post on one of the sites but no one chimed in on if they work or not. They where a different brand though but same concept.
View attachment 20226
Do I need 2 or 4 of these, am I replacing the bushing at the outer end of the arm or both ends of arm on each side of car ?
 


Hpindy

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Do I need 2 or 4 of these, am I replacing the bushing at the outer end of the arm or both ends of arm on each side of car ?
They come 2 in a box . So you will need 2 boxes

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Mean Cat

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We destroyed speedys thread lol

But I agree with marc . I will also add there will be some personal preference involved also

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We are talking about 60' & what helps, was his question.
 


Mean Cat

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They come 2 in a box . So you will need 2 boxes

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OK, so I'm replacing both ends of the arm.
Thanks.
 


Mean Cat

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I can't believe there is no adjustment on stock arms.
 


Mean Cat

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My $.02 on camber settings.... I’m running the +.3 on mine now. I had it as high as +.8 (that was bad news for me). All our cars are different, so a one size fits all isn’t the way to look at this. What everybody needs to understand first is, the negative camber that the stock alignment comes with is not the best for drag racing. The higher your hp is..... the worse it is. You want the tire square (toe) and flat (camber) on the track when you launch at the starting line. Here’s the thing though..... after the initial hit where the weight transfer moves the camber toward negative, the weight is going to come off those tires and they start to go back to round and move back to that positive setting again. This is where too much positive camber (+.8) came back to bite me. I’m making enough power where the tire growing back to round and rolling back onto the outside edge lost traction at around 100mph and got scary. So I backed it off a half degree and it is much better. Too much of a good thing is not a good thing. On to toe...... Yes you want zero. When you come off the line, tow (just like camber) moves. It moves toward “in”. That’s actually good. In my experience with my car... toe in is more directionally stable. My car wants to go in a straight line with toe in. Toe out is squirrelly. The rear wants to come around with toe out. All of these things are more pronounced with the more power you make. So... study, study and eat your peas. 😝
Yeah power level & over all set up will make it different for each one of us, I'm just 2.85 with 3.09 & not much suspension upgrades, so I'm thinking 0 camber or +1 camber ?
 


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OK, so I'm replacing both ends of the arm.
Thanks.
Technically you only need to replace the outside bushings in the arms( next to the knuckle) that it's self will get you up to 1.5 degrees +/- . So 1 box will do 1 side of the car .

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Mean Cat

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Technically you only need to replace the outside bushings in the arms( next to the knuckle) that it's self will get you up to 1.5 degrees +/- . So 1 box will do 1 side of the car .

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So the 2 part bushing kit is on 1 end (outer end) of arm ?
 


Hpindy

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So the 2 part bushing kit is on 1 end (outer end) of arm ?
Correct . You get 2 bushing in the box . 1 goes on the aluminum upper control arm on the out side . The other bushing goes on the stamped steel upper control arm on the out side .

1 box does 1 side of the car .

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