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That's a clean run, straight in and out. No 90's. That looks like that's the way it should be plumbed to me.

That's a testament to Curt's tune I guess. That means no detonation rattling the rings and pressure passing the rings into the crankcase and out the valve covers. I'm simply amazed your on original short block.

Thing is, I'm just saying the assembly line tactics of a factory show some callus and non caring attitudes and sloppy work.(and potentially dangerous i.e., engine damage from filings). If your putting a bolt in and it's binding don't you stop and look? I'm just beginning to touch this car, but...

That's a definite put in as needed till' full scenario. I don't know the oil capacity to cross hatch correlation but I would think it's not a full quart. I would add 1/2 quart and wait a few minutes and check. Then add little increments till' your there. In the old days on Chevy's it was easy...

Yesterday I did the first oil change on my Red eye at 577mi. Was waiting to break 500mi to do first oil change even though most go 1000 or more and oil life was reading 91%. I'm old school, I always change oil on a fresh engine at 500mi. Started yesterday off at 479 and when I got home it was...

Different and understated, which is to say very good. (y)

Ok, I know Z Automotive makes all kinds of plug in electric gizmos for different things (Even light shows Lol). What's that one?

Does anyone know if anyone has tubbed one of these for street?(Or better yet anyone here) I mean I've seen tube chassis tubbed Challengers but not a street car. Is it because it's not a body on frame car and it would be impractical to chop into the structural integrity of the car?

You ever run them at the track? I know they're not dedicated drag radials but I'd like to know how they did if you ran them. I have a brand new set on a set of spare slingshots but only they had them on street for less than 1000mi. before I took them off for winter.

How much do they pay for old oily rags that I use to change the oil on my car. They have some real funky patterns on them. Lol.

Well... I guess that's that. Lovely! I'll take two.

Yea, I gotta say I need a little validity on this. Althoughhhhh, anything is possible today.

Excellent description and info. Nooow it makes sense in my tiny mind. Thanks James. Tony.

So they move the bearings up further into the snout (different casting) and extend the rotors a little more forward? But keeping all pulley alignments the same? Does the rotor machining extend into the snout and also becoming part of the blower or is rotor machining still confined to the...

Man made lightning? Lol.

I know the rotors are longer in the RE/Demon blowers, but is it strictly an internal dimension difference? I have never had the two side by side to see, or measured either.

With the 315's and Replica 10.5's no rubbing on the inside wheel well?

See that's true if you got a regular Hellcat, but me I got a RE. It's a B5 Blue regular body, 1 of 40, so it's special AND it has a little red dot in the emblem that says so. So you're all wrong. It's rare and has special badging. So there. :LOL:

Well if Gwyneth Paltrow can sell 'my vagina', they should be able to market any smell you want on demand. LOL.

8 miles on my RE. Had the salesmen take a pic of odometer the day it arrived at dealership. Then had him take another and send it live time in parking lot of dealership as it went in trailer to be shipped. When it came off trailer still read 8.